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This is an extremely rare Cartier date watch in stainless steel from the 1950s. It has a beautiful original dial with blue numerals. The crown mechanism is quite unique and controls the watch setting and calendar. This Cartier is equipped with a European Watch and Clock movement (EWC) which is considered to be Cartier’s best movement contractor. Over the next several decades, various marketing decisions (that seemed prudent at the time) pushed the Tavannes company more and more into the background. The factories themselves eventually closed, and the brand all but became extinct. But in 2008, the brand was re-introduced with a fresh lineup of designs, along with affordable prices.
An independent watchmaker in England popularized something called the coaxial escapement, which he used in a very limited production of expensive pocket and wristwatches. But then Omega patented the design and is still using it in its wristwatches today. It doesn’t require lubrication. I think they had some problems with it developmentally, but now they’re over that, and it’s supposed to be pretty reliable. These two details are a handhold to recognize pieces from the now retired ‘Collection Privée’ series, since only a few pieces did not have the rosette or were not individually numbered.
The ones I’ve seen from this period were unsigned, but they have enough similarities that you can see they came from the same factory. You can find a few examples of these watches in coffee-table books, but they’re so scarce I just don’t see them very often at shows. I think I’ve owned two and seen only a few in books in nearly 40 years of being interested in watches. Patek Philippe has created a new escapement made of silicon, or some exotic material. It doesn’t wear out and doesn’t have the lubrication requirements that old watches have. Old watches need to be cleaned and lubricated on a regular basis.